You can’t put on unwearable clothes. They don’t fit, they’re too tight, they hinder you, or they just don’t work. Even worse, like the clothing depicted in the following series of pictures, we experience it as intolerable, unreasonable, unbearable.But where do the boundaries lie? Too often we overlook the role that fashion photography and styling play in our process of perception. Many things are made possible, or indeed impossible, only in pictures. They reveal parts of the body that we don’t want to see, postures that we wouldn’t bear, contexts that disturb our understanding of reality.
If you expect fashion to simply work, then you don’t understand it. After all, testing out the boundaries of what doesn’t fit has always been an important source of inspiration for the design of our clothes. And nothing tells us more about ourselves than the taboo: what are men and women allowed to wear if they still want to be perceived as such? Transgressions make things interesting. They make us look, wake us up – and quite often what was once deemed unwearable becomes completely normal one season later.
But the pressures on fashion are greater today than ever before: everything in commercial magazines is subject to the censorship of political correctness. Everything is smoothed out and made to look more beautiful. Thus, fashion can only maintain its independence if it takes place in the realm of the experimental, like in this hybrid of a magazine and a catalogue.
Untragbar shows the work of students from the Integrated Design programme at the University of the Arts Bremen. They designed the collections, developed the photography and styling, wrote the concepts and created the layout.
Available at train station kiosks, bookstores, and by mail order. Send orders to: versand(at) textem.de, ISBN 978-3-86485-038-7, 245 x 340 mm, 154 pages, 12 euro. Textem Verlag, Hamburg, www.textem-verlag.de